Imagine looking at the soft sand awaiting you as a breeze blows through your hair and a sunset glimmers off the water, carrying you as if you were flying. Ventura, Calif. has always been known for its beautiful beaches. With ideal summer temperatures between the 60s and 70s, and bright, sunny days, it is not surprising that Ventura is a sweet spot for people of all ages to bring their surfboards and catch a smooth wave. While looking out at the ocean you catch many surf enthusiasts from all different backgrounds coming together to enjoy what nature provides. Which brings to the table the thought-provoking question — Why do people enjoy it so much?
Throughout the course of history, it is quite apparent that there are some individuals who completely changed the course of surfing, evolving it into the popular sport it is today.
Thomas Roland Curren was the first American in history to win the title of World Surf League champion in 1985. He then proceeded to secure the title in 1986 and 1990. Curren was able to obtain 33 wins at different events throughout his career. He is an idol to many surfers of all ages, inspiring people with his incredible talent and passionate drive.
Robert Kelly Slater was given the World Surf League title 11 times, his first win in 1992. He later went on to collect 56 Championship Tour victories, and held, according to the Olympics, “the record for being both the youngest and oldest men’s world champion.” Slater may have started with a passion, but little did he know his name would go down in history as one of the greatest surfers of all time.
In local Ventura, people of all ages have sparked a particular interest in this sport, especially since the area is full of ideal swells for surfing, and home to a welcoming and ardent surfing community.
While many surfers like to keep their best spots a secret, some places clearly gain traction, leaving not one place on the water open. Rincon, also known as the “Queen of the Coast”, is one of the most well-known point breaks in the world, located in between the Ventura and Santa Barbara county lines. Another very popular palace is Surfer’s Point in Ventura, Calif. which never disappoints when looking for a good wave. A superb spot can make or break the surfing results, but many who love it enough will go out no matter the conditions, continuing the passion and joy they receive on the water.
Surfers dedicate their lives to this sport and some who love the ocean enough will even make it the focal point of their career and life. Malia Ilagan ‘25 a senior at El Camino High School, has been surfing since she was only 4 years old. She has always loved the thrill of catching a wave and now surfs competitively. She expressed that, “being in the water [provides] a different feeling than just standing on the beach.” In her mind, surfing is “its own little world.”
“It’s been my everything … I’ve made my best memories because of surfing and my life definitely wouldn’t have been the same without it,” Ilagan states. She believes it brings lots of people closer to nature and “closer together [which] is something that’s good for everyone.” At Ventura’s well-known beaches, surfing forms its own community creating meaningful bonds and for some, second families.
While many surf for fun or even competitively, some people who care immensely about it end up dedicating their life to working in this field.
Dr. Christian Glasgow has been surfing since he was a kid and is now a surf psychologist. He has discovered that, “it’s a skill set.” Adding that, “[People] get a certain feeling [and] satisfaction, [which] you can apply to anything.” He started out on a boogie board in Cardiff, Calif., evolving until he was able to finish, in nationals, once in third place and twice in second place when he entered high school.
Dr. Glasgow explained that, “Ventura [is] definitely a blue collar, hardworking kind of surf environment,” which he feels puts “Ventura on the map.” He described this whole process as a “blessing and curse.”
“People will drive up from San Diego or Orange County, just to go surfing [at] Rincon, Sand Spit or El Cap,” Dr. Glasgow said. “It’s hard to break in the surfing community, but once you pay your dues, put in the time and show respect, our arms are wide open.”
Other surfers in the community expressed how surfing has really impacted the way they feel. It creates major changes, not just in physical well-being, but emotional as well.
Jack “JJ” Green, an active surfer who started out surfing with family support, later surfing competitively, expressed that throughout his journey, and many others, this sport has become “a whole mental journey for a lot of us.”
He talks about the dangers of having too high of expectations earlier in his career. “If you go out with very low expectations, just to get wet or get one wave … you come out of the water feeling a lot better,” Green expressed.
The surfing community has treated him and many other people with this dedication, very positively which Green went into depth about. “It’s no longer just about riding waves and getting better. It’s about the characters at the beach,” Green commented.
That being said, he also expressed caution for the new surfing culture. He explained that when he was younger, “the goal was always to work your way up the pecking order” with a class-like culture depending on your surfing experience.
“That changed though … There’s no more fighting or intimidation. It’s kind of just a free-for-all all, which I think [is] a little bit more dangerous now,” Green vocalized.
He feels that after COVID, surfing in Ventura gained more traction quickly leading to crowded beaches with many younger surfers wanting to jump straight to the top of the “pecking order.” While Green encourages new surfers, he acknowledges that it is, “a little frustrating for us old guys” who have been surfing for a long time.
“Everyone just thinks that, oh, it’s just this whole kumbaya, go out and surf. It’s not like that, so our waves have gotten really crowded. The [community is] changing. I don’t know if it’s for the better or worse, you know time will tell,” Green stated.
Green concludes by saying it’s, “a life journey” and he, like many other surfers out there, welcomes more who are passionate and want to try it out.
A supporting community and great local beaches have really put Ventura on the map, allowing people to thrive and grow in this passion many people of all ages enjoy. The satisfaction those have when catching a wave can’t compare to anything else, allowing people to feel a sense of self and purpose.
With charming, sandy beaches, perfect weather and bright summer sun, it is no secret that Ventura’s coastline draws in surfers from all over the world to come and get a taste of the beautiful nature this community has to offer.
